Melons, pumpkins and squash all belong to the cucurbit family, and all of them share the same weakness: they hate cold roots. In a British garden the season is short enough that direct sowing rarely delivers a worthwhile crop, so the spring seed-sowing schedule does most of the work for you. Get the timing right and you will be harvesting sun-warmed fruit from late summer into October. Get it wrong — sowing too early in a chilly greenhouse, or planting out before the soil has properly warmed — and seedlings will sulk, yellow and stall.
As a rule of thumb, work backwards from your last expected frost. In most of the UK that falls between mid-May and early June, later in northern Scotland and exposed upland areas. Everything below is built around that date.
Melons are the fussiest of the three and need the longest head start. Sow indoors in late April to mid-May, roughly three to four weeks before you intend to plant them out. Use individual 7–9cm pots filled with a good peat-free multipurpose compost, and sow the seed on its side about 1cm deep — this helps prevent the seed from rotting.
Heat is everything. Germination needs a steady 21–25°C, so a heated propagator or a warm windowsill above a radiator is ideal. Once the seedlings are up, drop the temperature to around 18°C and give them as much light as you can manage, turning the pots daily so they do not stretch towards the glass. A leggy melon seedling rarely recovers.
Melons crop best under cover in Britain. A greenhouse, polytunnel or even a sunny south-facing wall with a cloche will make the difference between a handful of fruit and none at all.
Pumpkins, winter squash and courgettes are far more forgiving, but they grow fast. Sow them two to three weeks after the melons — generally early to mid-May — so the plants are stocky rather than enormous by planting-out time. Three to four weeks of indoor growth is plenty.
Sow two seeds per 9cm pot, 2cm deep, and thin to the strongest seedling once they have germinated. Keep them at 18–21°C. If you are growing a large pumpkin for size, you may prefer to sow a single seed per pot to avoid root disturbance later, because cucurbits dislike having their roots knocked about.
If you have a warm, sheltered spot and well-drained soil, courgettes and some bush squash will also grow from a direct sowing in late May or early June, but pot-raised plants almost always race ahead.
This is the stage where most crops are lost. A seedling that has never felt wind or a cold night will scorch and check if you plant it straight into the open ground. Harden them off gradually over seven to ten days.
Start by putting the pots outside in a sheltered, lightly shaded spot for two or three hours on a mild day, then bring them back in. Increase the time each day, gradually moving them into more sun and more exposure. By day seven or eight they should be outside all day and, if the forecast is mild, left out overnight under fleece.
Plant out only once the soil temperature is reliably above 12°C and all risk of frost has passed. Prepare the ground a fortnight earlier by digging in plenty of well-rotted compost or manure. Cucurbits are hungry, thirsty plants. Space pumpkins and winter squash about 1.5m apart, melons 60–90cm apart under cover, and courgettes 90cm apart.
Plant with the stem slightly proud of the soil, water in well, and set a cloche or fleece over them for the first week. A ring of slug barrier is worth the trouble — young cucurbit stems are slug caviar.
Melons are ready when the fruit slips easily from the vine with a gentle nudge and the skin smells sweet and musky at the base. Cut them with a short stalk and ripen at room temperature if needed — they will not sweeten once picked, so be patient.
Summer squash and courgettes are best picked young and small, around 10–15cm, while the skin is glossy and the seeds are still soft. Keep picking every few days or the plants will stop producing.
Pumpkins and winter squash need to be fully mature. Wait until the skin is hard enough to resist a fingernail and the stalk has begun to cork and dry. Cut with 5–10cm of stalk attached and cure the fruit in a warm, sunny spot for a week or two, then store somewhere cool, dry and frost-free. Stored well, they will keep for months.
Melon needs almost nothing doing to it — a squeeze of lime, a few mint leaves, or a slice of Parma-style ham. Pumpkin and squash reward roasting in chunks with olive oil, garlic and rosemary, then blitzing into soup with a little cream and nutmeg. For something more substantial, halve a small squash, stuff it with rice, herbs and cheese, and bake until the flesh collapses. The seeds are worth saving too: rinse them, toss in oil and salt, and roast until crisp.
During hot spells, melons may need daily watering. Mulch the soil surface to lock in moisture and keep roots cool.
I must explain to you how all this mistaken idea of denouncing pleasure and praising pain was born and I will give you a complete account of the system
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I must explain to you how all this mistaken idea of denouncing pleasure and praising pain was born and I will give you a complete account of the system
Reply
I must explain to you how all this mistaken idea of denouncing pleasure and praising pain was born and I will give you a complete account of the system
Reply
I must explain to you how all this mistaken idea of denouncing pleasure and praising pain was born and I will give you a complete account of the system
Reply
Roast pumpkin chunks with cumin and coriander, then blend with stock and a splash of cream. Serve hot with crusty bread.
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