As the nights draw in and the first chilly mornings arrive, pumpkin and squash growers across Britain know the clock is ticking. The lush vines that romped across the plot all summer are fading, and the fruits that have been swelling for weeks are in their final push towards maturity. What you do over the next few weeks will determine whether you enjoy a pantry full of sweet, firm-fleshed squash well into next spring — or a sad pile of rotting fruits by Christmas. So grab your secateurs and a good pair of gloves, and let’s get to work.
Pumpkins and winter squash need a long, warm season to ripen fully, and autumn’s shortening days can halt that process abruptly. A single frosty night can turn a promising pumpkin to mush. Even before frost, cool, damp conditions encourage mildews and rots that spread from faded leaves to the fruits. By removing old foliage, harvesting mature fruits, and clearing debris now, you protect your harvest and set the stage for a healthy bed next year.
Walk through your patch and look at the foliage. Leaves that have turned yellow, brown or powdery white with mildew are no longer feeding the plant. They shade the fruits and trap moisture, inviting disease. Use sharp secateurs to cut these leaves off at the stem, leaving healthy green leaves intact. Do not pull them off, as you can damage the vine. As you thin the canopy, the fruits will be exposed to more sunlight, which helps toughen their skins and improves ripening. Aim for a balance: enough foliage to protect the fruits from scorching, but not so much that air cannot circulate. While you are in there, check for slugs and snails, which love to nibble on young fruits.
How do you know when a pumpkin or squash is ready? Look for these signs:
For winter storage, you want fully ripe fruits. However, if frost is forecast and your fruits are not quite there, you can harvest them and cure them indoors. They may not store as long, but they will still be edible.
To harvest, use a sharp knife or secateurs to cut the stem, leaving about 5cm (2 inches) attached. Never carry the fruit by the stem — it can snap off, leaving a wound that rots. Instead, cradle the fruit in your hands. Handle gently; bruises shorten storage life.
Curing is the secret to keeping pumpkins and squash through winter. It allows the skin to thicken and any small cuts to heal. If the weather is dry and sunny, leave the fruits on a warm, sheltered surface outdoors for 10 to 14 days, bringing them in at night if frost threatens. Alternatively, cure them in a greenhouse or sunny porch. After curing, store them in a cool, dry, dark place — a frost-free shed, garage or spare room is ideal. Temperatures of 10–15°C (50–59°F) are best. Arrange them so they are not touching, and check regularly for soft spots. With good curing, many varieties will keep for three to six months.
Once you have harvested all the fruits, clear the vines. Cut them at ground level and remove the whole plant, including any remaining leaves and fruits that are too small or damaged to store. If the vines are free from disease, add them to the compost heap. If they show signs of mildew or rot, dispose of them in your council green waste bin — do not compost them, as the spores can survive. Next, pull up any stakes or supports, and give the bed a thorough tidy. Remove weeds and any plant debris that could harbour pests.
Now is the perfect moment to improve your soil. Pumpkins and squash are hungry feeders, so they will have taken a lot of nutrients. Spread a generous layer — 5–10cm (2–4 inches) — of well-rotted manure or garden compost over the bed. You can either dig it in lightly or leave it on the surface as a mulch, letting worms do the work. If your soil is heavy clay, add some horticultural grit for drainage. If it is sandy, the compost will help it hold water and nutrients.
Bare soil is vulnerable to winter rain and wind, which can leach nutrients and cause erosion. After spreading compost, consider sowing a green manure such as field beans, grazing rye or winter tares. These cover crops hold the soil together, suppress weeds and add organic matter when you dig them in next spring. If you prefer not to sow, simply leave the compost as a thick mulch. You can also cover the bed with a layer of cardboard weighed down with stones — this will smother weeds and rot down over winter. Either way, you are giving your plot a head start for next year’s crops.
Finally, take a moment to clean your tools and sharpen your secateurs. Store your cured pumpkins where you can admire them, and plan which varieties you will grow next season. And of course, the best part of all this work is the cooking — roasted squash with sage, spicy pumpkin soup, or a sweet pumpkin pie. There is something deeply satisfying about a well-tended autumn plot and a kitchen filled with the promise of warming meals to come.
Sow melons indoors in late spring and pumpkins a few weeks later. Harden seedlings off gradually before planting them outside.
I must explain to you how all this mistaken idea of denouncing pleasure and praising pain was born and I will give you a complete account of the system
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I must explain to you how all this mistaken idea of denouncing pleasure and praising pain was born and I will give you a complete account of the system
Reply
I must explain to you how all this mistaken idea of denouncing pleasure and praising pain was born and I will give you a complete account of the system
Reply
I must explain to you how all this mistaken idea of denouncing pleasure and praising pain was born and I will give you a complete account of the system
Reply
During hot spells, melons may need daily watering. Mulch the soil surface to lock in moisture and keep roots cool.
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