Melons sprawl. Left to their own devices on a greenhouse floor, a single vine will happily run three or four metres in every direction, smothering its neighbours and hiding its own fruit. In a British garden, where warmth is precious and space is tight, that is simply wasteful. Training melons upwards — up canes, wires or a simple frame — keeps them tidy and gives you far more crop from the same patch.
There is a second benefit that matters even more than tidiness: airflow. Melons are prone to powdery mildew and botrytis, and both thrive in still, humid air around ground level. Lifting the foliage into the light and moving air keeps leaves dry and healthy. Vertical vines are also far easier to pollinate by hand, to water accurately, and to inspect for pests. Once you have grown them this way, you will not go back.
Pumpkins and squash respond to the same treatment, though their fruit is heavier, so plan for stronger supports and a little more engineering.
Anything sturdy will do, provided it reaches at least 1.8 metres and is fixed firmly at both ends. A budget-friendly setup uses three or four 2.4-metre bamboo canes pushed 30 centimetres into the soil or grow bag, angled slightly inwards and tied together near the top to form a teepee or an A-frame. For a more permanent greenhouse arrangement, run horizontal galvanised wires across the glazing bars at 30-centimetre intervals and tie vertical canes to them.
Set the supports in place before you plant, not after. Disturbing roots later to push in a cane does more damage than beginners expect.
Melons are usually grown as a single cordon. Choose the strongest shoot and remove the rest at soil level, then wind that stem up its cane as it grows, tying it loosely every 20 to 30 centimetres. Ties should form a figure of eight around both cane and stem, so the vine never rubs against the support.
Once the plant reaches the top of its support, pinch out the growing tip. This stops it running into the roof and pushes energy into fruit instead. Side shoots that appear from the leaf joints should be pinched out after two leaves unless they carry a female flower — those you keep, cutting back to one leaf beyond the fruit. Aim to ripen three or four melons per plant in a British season; more than that and none will taste of much. With pumpkins and squash, the same principle applies, but leave a wider spacing and pinch the main stem at roughly 1.5 metres to encourage branching.
A ripening melon can weigh a kilogram or more, and a squat pumpkin considerably more. Vines are strong in tension but weak where a heavy fruit pulls sideways on its stalk, so support the fruit itself rather than trusting the stem alone.
Check slings monthly. Stems thicken quickly, and a tie that fitted in July may be throttling by August.
Vertical melons dry out faster than those on the ground because the compost surface is more exposed and the foliage transpires freely. Water little and often at the base, aiming for consistently moist but never sodden compost. Never wet the leaves; damp foliage in a closed greenhouse at dusk is an invitation to mildew.
Start feeding with a high-potash tomato feed once the first fruits reach golf-ball size, and continue weekly until they begin to colour. Hand-pollinate in the morning by picking a male flower, peeling back its petals and dabbing the pollen onto the centre of a female flower — the one with a small swelling behind it. Do this on a dry, sunny morning for the best success.
A ripe cantaloupe gives itself away. The skin turns from green to buff or orange, a sweet scent develops at the blossom end, and the fruit will slip from the vine with a gentle tug — the so-called "slip stage". Cut it in the morning with a short stalk attached and eat it within a few days; home-grown melons do not store like shop-bought ones.
Pumpkins and winter squash are ready when the rind is hard enough that a thumbnail will not dent it, the colour is deep and even, and the stem has begun to cork and dry. Cut them with a 5-centimetre handle, leave them to cure in a sunny, airy spot for a fortnight, then store somewhere cool and dry. Trained upwards, they will keep for months and taste all the sweeter for having ripened in full sun.
Melons need consistent moisture, especially when flowering and swelling fruit. Water deeply at the base and avoid soaking the leaves.
I must explain to you how all this mistaken idea of denouncing pleasure and praising pain was born and I will give you a complete account of the system
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I must explain to you how all this mistaken idea of denouncing pleasure and praising pain was born and I will give you a complete account of the system
Reply
I must explain to you how all this mistaken idea of denouncing pleasure and praising pain was born and I will give you a complete account of the system
Reply
I must explain to you how all this mistaken idea of denouncing pleasure and praising pain was born and I will give you a complete account of the system
Reply
Greenhouse melons may need help with pollination. Transfer pollen from male to female flowers using a soft brush or cotton bud.
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